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Showing posts from April, 2016

Mother's day card making (vellum overlay card)

I have been watching video tutorials about card making for weeks now.  In particular, I've been following a couple of Youtube channels (Christina Griffiths Card making magic and Jennifer McGuire Ink) that really inspired me so that I decided to give it a try myself. To be honest, I've always tried to make gift tags or Xmas cards myself whenever it has been possible, but I have to admit that I've been always making very simple things by using whatever I had at home... This time I invested some money (not much to be honest) and decided to go for craft shopping (embossing powders, stamps, heat gun, some paper sheets, tapes etc). I've watched (10 many times) and already shared on my FB page an amazing video about how to make vellum overlay cards. Vellum it's a very interesting material and that's the reason why I chose to use it in my first card. That's my attempt to create a 'Mother's day card'
Below you'll find more details about the card making p…

Inventory list of soap colourants

I will be making some Melt&Pour soap bars (and possibly one Cold Process soap too) in the forthcoming weeks and I was trying to get my head around the behaviours of soap colourants in different soaping processes. Some of them are alkali-resistant while some of them are not, some can bleed through soap layers but some don't...  I now have a fairly good number of colourants (liquid dyes, micas, oxides and ultramarines) and I keep forgetting which, among them, is suitable for Cold Process soap making, which works better in Melt&Pour and which, on the other hand, gives great results in both processes... For my own sake, I decided to go through all the colourants I currently posses, to create swatches for each of them and to generate a table with all their features and behaviours. Definitely useful




Raspberry classic soap

This soap contains equal amounts (~30% of total oils) of olive oil, coconut oil, and palm oil. It also contains 5% of canola oil and 5% of castor oil. The lye solution has been prepared in distilled water. The raspberry fragrance comes from the Soap Kitchen UK and it has been used as less than 0.5% of the total weight. I believe the stick blender really made the difference this time: I've reached the trace in less than 2 minutes... It has been probably a way too fast and that's why I couldn't play around with colours as I wanted... but I'll do better next time. The soap hardened in the mould after an overnight only and I managed cut it straight away. I measured the pH which is around 8.6 and the small bit of soap that I rubbed on my hand produced a nice fluffy lather. Now curing time for four long weeks!

'Second CP soaping experience: half a disaster...?' PART II

As promised, here you have my summary on the last CP soap I made... yes, the one with coffee and a really weird texture!
Soap unmoulding: 48 hours after pouring.
Soap cutting: 2 days after I removed it from the wooden mould... 4 days in total and...


Soap slices do not look good...at all! :-/
The lower layer appears to be very soft and sticky (my fingerprint is well visible in the lower left corner)


...and the upper layer is even flakier than 2 days ago (below you see the result I got after having gently squeezed a bit of soap between thumb and index finger).

Soap facts:
- very poor lather with any of the two layers
- layers' weird consistency does not make the usage of the slice easy
- pH of the two layer is pretty different: well below 8 for the white layer and higher than 8.6 for the brown one.

GUESS WHERE IS THE SOAP NOW???